Tree Removal or Pruning?
The most common mistake we see in Skåne is not that people fell the wrong trees, it is that they fell trees that could have been saved. A healthy 50-year-old tree can often be saved with proper pruning. Once it is gone, it takes a generation to get something similar back.
Here is the decision guide we use ourselves. We always start with pruning as the default answer and fell only when truly necessary.
Seven questions that decide
Before you decide, work through these questions systematically:
1. Is the tree diseased?
- Yes, ash dieback or elm disease → felling recommended. The diseases are incurable.
- Yes, local rot or canker → on-site assessment, possibly salvageable
- No, the tree is healthy but problematic → pruning is usually enough
2. How much of the crown is dead or damaged?
- More than 50% → felling recommended
- 30-50% → crown reduction and rejuvenation pruning can save the tree
- Less than 30% → standard pruning is enough
3. Is the trunk sound?
- Split or with large open cankers → felling
- Brown discolouration on drilling or bark scraping → certified arborist assessment
- Solid and whole → pruning is enough
4. Does the tree lean?
- More than 10 degrees after root lift → felling recommended, unstable
- 5-10 degrees, older lean → assessment, often stable
- Natural growth lean without root lift → standard pruning
5. Does the tree threaten safety?
- Major risk to house, road or person → felling if pruning cannot eliminate the risk
- Moderate risk → safety pruning (remove risk branches)
- No direct risk → maintenance pruning is enough
6. How does the tree relate to its place?
- Completely wrong species in wrong place (fast-growing poplar against a wall) → felling
- Outgrown its place but can be shaped → pruning to size
- Right species in right place → maintenance pruning
7. Is the problem permanent or solvable?
- Permanent (shades out the entire lawn on a small lot, cannot be pruned enough) → felling
- Solvable by pruning (branches over gutters) → pruning
When you absolutely should fell
There are six clear scenarios where pruning is not enough:
- Dead or dying tree (ash dieback, elm disease, rot)
- Storm-damaged tree with split trunk or more than 50% crown loss
- Tree leaning 10+ degrees after root lift
- Tree with large internal cankers or rot compromising load capacity
- Tree threatening safety in ways pruning cannot solve (trunk against the house, impossible to remove without taking the whole tree)
- Tree that must go for valid other reasons (building permit for extension, connection to municipal infrastructure)
When pruning suffices (and is often better)
For healthy or moderately affected trees, pruning is nearly always better than felling:
- Individual branches over gutters or roof tiles → safety pruning of risk branches
- Shading side branches → crown reduction on the affected side
- Water shoots on fruit trees → directed pruning during the summer window (July to September)
- Uneven shape after previous hard pruning → corrective pruning across 2-3 seasons
- Crown too large for the place → moderate crown reduction (max 25% at once)
- Rejuvenation of older trees → planned work across 2-3 seasons
More on pruning technique on our tree pruning page.
Rejuvenation pruning, alternative to felling
Many old apple trees, limes and beech crowns in Skåne look like they are on the way out, but can be saved with planned rejuvenation pruning:
- Season 1: Crown thinning. Open up for light and air, remove the worst water shoots and dead branches.
- Season 2: Directed rejuvenation. New fruit-bearing or shape-defining branches established.
- Season 3: Maintenance pruning. The tree is now in good shape, an annual touch-up is enough.
We never take more than 25% of the crown at once. More stresses the tree and invites disease.
Economic arguments
Pruning is often significantly cheaper than felling:
Both are RUT-eligible with 50% off the labor cost directly on the invoice. Pruning is usually significantly cheaper than felling and is often sufficient for a healthy tree. Contact us for a free on-site assessment.
Both are RUT-eligible (50% off labor), but pruning is often half the price or less.
When to refer to a certified arborist
Certain cases require a certified arborist with the ETW credential:
- Trees above 25 metres
- Assessment of internal trunk rot (often requires resistograph)
- Valuable specimen trees where preservation is the top priority
- Protected species where dispensation from länsstyrelsen is required
We partner with ETW-certified arborists for such cases and quote jointly.
Want an assessment?
Call +46 73 949 06 24 or write via the contact page. We come out, work through all seven questions with you, and recommend honestly: is it felling, pruning, or just observation. Inspection is always free. Read more about tree removal or tree pruning.
